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The Logan Simplex Elite mat cutter is advertised as a medium-duty unit for home or occasional business use. In practice it fits this category.

Fairly easy to put together but took me about 1. Since your hand is at the bottom of the cutter, you can easily see the line on the right of the unit, and easily match it up with the line you're moving toward as you cut. In some cases, a Fenner PowerTwist belt will run smoother than a continuous vee belt.

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The unit was purchased from Hyatt Graphic Supply via Amazon. Shipping was quick and mostly uneventful. It was shipped in its retail box, which had popped open along one seam. Fortunately, all the little pieces inside were exceptionally well packed, boxed, and labelled, so nothing was missing.

We have two large pieces to frame that prompted our purchase. Indeed, the unit will have paid for itself with just the first project. I am a novice mat cutter and the Logan cutter is proving to be an excellent tool for the beginner.

Using the guides on the tool, the corners have been excellent from the first mat. I have successfully cut single mats, double mats, and mats with multiple openings. I am a photographer and the cost of framing was a major expense to enter a show or exhibition. By cutting my own mats and completing my own frames, I have greatly reduced my recurring costs. The Logan mat cutter pays for itself within the first three or four framings. I've been very happy with the Logan Compact Mat Cutter I bought a couple of years ago, so when I found myself in need of a model that could handle a 40" mat board, I didn't hesitate to purchase the Logan Simplex Elite.

All in all, it's a very good mat cutter. It's big, it's solid, and it handles boards up to 40" with no problems. It's physically larger and more solid, but they changed the design in several keys ways that makes it both less effective i. First off, the is a "pull-type" cutter, meaning you start the cut at the top of the board and pull the cutter toward you. In theory, this shouldn't make that much of a difference, but in practice, it does.

Maybe it's the fact that you also have to hold the blade assembly down while you're pulling the cutter toward you that makes it harder to use than the "old" model , which you push away from you, toward the top of the board. The other thing wrong with the is that you have to hold it near the top because you have to push down on the blade assembly and hold it down while you're cutting , so that your hand is now covering the line in the middle of the cutter that tells you when to stop cutting when the line reaches the line you've drawn on the mat board.

You have to pivot your hand up while you're cutting to see where the line is. The model is much, much easier to use. Since your hand is at the bottom of the cutter, you can easily see the line on the right of the unit, and easily match it up with the line you're moving toward as you cut.

Although less problematic, they also changed the design of the straight cutter, so that you have to hold it down while cutting. Why do I need to hold the blade down while pulling the cutter down the length of the board?

It makes no sense! Something tells me these changes were made for reasons having to do with product LI-ability, rather than customer USE-ability.

By having to hold the blade assembly down, I guess it's less likely that you or your child could accidentally cut yourself. Whatever the reason, it's a shame that an otherwise-excellent product should be so hampered by cutting tools that make your job harder than it used to be, rather than easier. BTW, you can as of the date of this review buy the model bevel cutter separately. I just ordered one, in case I want to pass my Model on to a friend.

I absolutely love this mat cutter. I needed to make 40 mats when I first ordered this device. It was easy to use right on my kitchen counter and made superb professional mats relatively easily. I purchased this mat cutter to upgrade from a Logan that I have used for the past several years.

The did not have a squaring arm so squaring mat and foam board was a chore as was cutting the mats. The is well made, the squaring arm is solid and stays square to the guide. I am very pleased with this tool and have been happy with the mats that I have cut to date. The only negative comment that I have is that I cannot find spare circular blades for the paper cutter anywhere online.

Living deep in the mountains, I maintain a stock of parts for my tools since the nearest large stores are 70 miles away or days for replacements to arrive when ordered online. See all 44 reviews. Most recent customer reviews. Published 1 month ago. The parts not mentioned are cover in a leather effect material. But don't panic, it's the same product, it just takes a little time for the previous packaging to move through our warehouses. The responses from Argos colleagues are accurate at the time of publishing.

For the latest info, you should check the product page. Argos logo — link to home page. Pay online now or pay when you pick up in-store Click and collect. Pay online now or pay when you pick up in store. You can pay later with the argos card Representative You can pay later with the argos card. Representative 29 point 9 percent APR variable. Check stock Tell us where you are to check stock: Add to Your Wishlist.

Spread the cost over 12 Months with an argos card credit plan Find out more. After doing this, the bed should be free from twist. An easier way to do the same thing is to put the precision level securely on top of the lathe carriage, perpendicular to the lathe bed with the carriage near the headstock.

Adjust one headstock foot for level. Then crank the carriage towards the tailstock and adjust one tailstock foot for level. If the lathe feet are not adjustable, place the right size shims under the foot for level. Another option for leveling is to use adjustable machine mounts. Once you have the lathe level, it should cut straight. The needle should not move. If it slowly drifts from one end to the other, the lathe bed is still twisted. Adjust for no change. If the needle varies nonlinearly, then the bed is worn.

Logan supplied collet adapters for this spindle that fit also known as 5C collets. These are more limiting and less available than 5C collets, but equally precise and convenient. You may be able to find used collet adapters to fit a Logan lathe at used machinery dealers.

You can also make your own collet adapter. Most show how to make a precision adapter that fits into the spindle nose and accepts a draw-in collet. Larger lathes can accept 5C collets.

One article from shows how to make a collet adapter that fits over the spindle nose. This is a much more advanced project. You can buy new draw-in collet adapters made by Royal or new over-the-nose collet adapters made by Bison or Sjogren from Logan Actuator or other dealers.

Each lathe manufacturer made their spindle nose slightly differently. This means that you will have to take a final cut on a generic backplate or faceplate to get it to fit on a Logan. If you buy a backplate or faceplate from Logan , it will precisely mate with the Logan spindle without any adjustment. You can learn about this simple process from one of these excellent articles: There are many used machinery dealers that have used gears available.

You can also buy new gears directly from Logan Actuator. If the vee belt on your lathe is worn out, you can replace it with a Fenner PowerTwist belt, available from many dealers. This belt is made of many identical belt links. You buy it in bulk and snap together the length that you need. In some cases, a Fenner PowerTwist belt will run smoother than a continuous vee belt. The early Logan Lathes were painted a very dark Blue-Gray. Sometime in the early s, the color was changed to a Medium Gray or Machinery Gray.

It was a very common color for machine tools at the time. The Medium Gray is readily available from many sources still. The Blue-Gray is not. This is what Logan uses now for the Lathe parts. In , the lathe manufacturing operation was moved out of Chicago by Houdaille and the color was changed to a metallic green.

Joe Schulte found a paint that matches his vintage Model perfectly: Baby Seal Black, Color Book Any Benjamin-Moore dealer can mix this up for you.

The smallest size he could get was a quart. The name makes the color sound black when it is really Blue -Gray. Many industrial or auto paint stores will match color if you bring them a sample. Some will even load a rattle-can for you. Bring along your tailstock and they can match the color, complete with age and dirt stains. No chuck or collet is perfect. Even a new three-jaw chuck is only good to 0. Any of these could cause a good lathe to wobble. It could be that the jaws of the chuck are worn.

Letting parts spin in the jaws wears the chuck quickly. It could also be that the scroll of the chuck is worn. The scroll is a flat spiral metal plate behind the jaws. Another possibility is that the chuck is mounted on the backplate wrong or that there are dirt or chips between the chuck and the backplate. Take it apart, clean it carefully, oil it, and reassemble it. Still another possibility is that there is dirt or chips between the backplate and the spindle.

Unscrew the backplate from the spindle, clean the threads in the backplate and on the spindle, oil both, and try assembling it again. Screw it together gently. It should not be forced together or spun on fast with a snap. It could be that the spindle is bent. Put a dial indicator on the spindle nose to check it. It could be that the spindle bearings are bad or that the spindle is improperly installed. Good bearings will feel smooth and have no play.

Logan spindles are precision machined to give the bearings a precise preload when the spindle is correctly assembled. Preloaded bearings have no play. If the scroll is worn and you fix the jaws, the chuck will be true at the diameter that you used for the repair, but nowhere else. However, you must do this with the jaws pressing against something.

One way to do this is with a piece of sheet metal having holes for each jaw. Another way to do this is to drill holes in each jaw for a pin or screw, and have these pins or screws tighten down on a piece of pipe. Tighten the chuck on the sheet metal or pipe and the jaws will be locked in the right place.

Before you buy used chuck jaws sight-unseen, you need to know that there are hundreds, if not thousands of different jaw sizes. It is nearly impossible to find replacement jaws for a particular chuck unless you go right to the chuck manufacturer.

Logan chucks were made by Buck, now Buck Forkardt. Buck Forkardt is not set up to support home shop machinists. Their prices for replacement parts are astronomical. It would be less expensive to buy a new imported chuck than to buy new jaws. These are high quality chucks, made in Europe and are great investments for your Lathe. The Logan , and in fact all Logan and Montgomery Wards Lathes, except the 9" and those with a variable speed drive, used a 2 step "V to Flat Drive ".

You can buy these pulleys from Logan Actuator. Specify motor shaft size when ordering. Larger chucks were available, but they are impractical on these lathes because the jaws would hit the bed when the chucks were opened. Larger chucks are also heavier, so they put a strain on the spindle and spindle bearings.

In general, use the smallest possible quality chuck for the job. There are many places on your lathe that require frequent lubrication. Check your Logan manual for a listing of oil points. Logan manuals can be bought from Logan Actuator. The ways bed of the lathe should be lubricated with a heavy , sticky oil called way lube. This is available in a few different viscosities thicknesses. Use true way lube and apply it with a clean cloth every time you use the lathe.

Logan Actuator supplies a synthetic belt that is the right size for your Logan lathe. The synthetic belt is stronger and stickier than the original leather belt, and requires no special care. If you want to use leather, you can still buy leather belting materials from McMaster-Carr Supply.

The primary reasoning was so that the belt could be shifted from one position to the other without having to release the tension, requiring another adjustment. This is a very difficult question for many reasons: Different parts of the country and world have different demand, so different values;. Lathes vary tremendously in condition, from broken, to worn out, to like-new, and everywhere in between; and.

Lathe accessories can be worth more than the basic lathe so value is strongly dependent on what comes with it tooling, attachments, motor, etc.

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